Wednesday, November 24, 2010

Seattle: What’s Good Part Two

From the myriad of intersecting lines at city hall to the modern interpretation of the age-old library, Seattle has some very distinct architectural features that make walking around the city pure delight. While walking down James Street into Pioneer Square, a parking lot perched at a 45-degree angle seems to grow out of the sidewalk. Unassumingly, the entire side of a towering skyscraper on 5th Ave. is done in a simple, tiled mosaic of different colours, which you could easily miss if you weren’t paying close attention. Architectural gems, both hidden and on display, become more striking as you journey through the streets of Seattle.


The central library, located at the corner of 5th and Madison is a building made almost entirely of glass, and looks more like what I imagined the recent addition to the ROM in Toronto to be (instead, they ran out of money and replaced the glass with metal). Seattle’s library was designed by Rem Koolhaas, and the Dutch influence is apparent in the library’s geometric lines and splashes of bright colour amidst an overall more neutral colour palette. There is an entire section done in the colour red: walls, ceilings, floors, staircases, doors. It is both overwhelming and awe-inspiring; it feels as though you’re travelling through a human body, all red on the inside. The escalators aren’t difficult to miss either. They jump out at you, illuminated and fluorescent yellow, taking you all the way up to the top floor Reading Room, which captures the essence of reading pleasure. The glass walls and ceiling provide tons of natural light, even in the Seattle gloom, and people sit in absolute silence. Surprisingly, the entire library seems extremely quiet, or perhaps the acoustics are built in such a way so as to distil noise.


In addition to great architecture, seafood is also at a prime in Seattle. You can buy all sorts of strange, large fish with wide-eyed stares at Pike Place Market (where they throw fish just for your entertainment), not to mention piles of Dungeness crab you can eat to your heart’s content. Clam chowder is a popular staple in the market and throughout the city, and it is the perfect, hearty remedy for a cold day in the Seattle rain.

If you’re looking for a more substantial meal than soup, you can head to Blueacre Seafood Restaurant located at 7th and Olive (http://blueacreseafood.com/) owned by Chef Kevin Davis and his wife Terresa, who was our hostess that evening. She was charming and personable, offering advice on what to eat and claiming “I married my husband for those crab cakes.” The service was friendly and professional overall, and the meal was truly gourmet without being overly expensive (this was in fact one of the owners’ mandates when they opened the place, and they have succeeded). Having filled up on too many carbs, I chose not to have a starter, but they brought me two complementary smoked salmon bites, which I always equate with pure class.

It’s these small touches, such as lemon-infused butter for the bread and horseradish brown butter for the main, which make a meal memorable. I also liked that for many dishes, you can choose either 5 oz. or 8 oz. of fish, so you can leave room for dessert if you wish. My main consisted of parmesan crusted Alaskan halibut, which was crispy on the outside but tender on the inside, truffled parsnip puree, which tasted like a lighter and more complex version of mashed potatoes, wilted spinach, and the brown butter that garnished every bite and disappeared too quickly.

Even with a bottle of wine, this meal for two was under $100, making it a top choice for a delicious and memorable dinner out. If you only have one dinner out in Seattle, make it Blueacre.

Saturday, November 20, 2010

Seattle: What's Good Part One


Having only recently moved to the west coast, this trip to Seattle is my first. I was told it was just a smaller version of Vancouver, but it is so very different from our city across the border. First, Seattle has a longer history than Vancouver, which means more shops, restaurants and buildings with an authentic charm from decades past. And of course, one of the most striking things about Seattle is the architecture. I think as far as a city downtown goes, Seattle is one of the finest for design.  Elements of it remind me of Boston, New York and even London, likely because of the antiquated feeling to places such as Pioneer Square.

On Bill Speidel’s Underground Tour (http://www.undergroundtour.com/), we learned that Seattle was established in the 1850s, when settlers from out east courageously ventured west to start a new town in which to turn a profit. Its first industry was lumber, but coal and gold also became important resources before the 1900s. The tour is underground because the current city is built above the old town. After a series of city planning blunders, including building on piles of sawdust landfill and constructing 10-35 ft. town walls to help with the gravity flow of sewage disposal and to avoid high tide, the streets were covered with bricks reinforced in the shape of Roman arches. This project was inspired by the need for safety in the streets: several people fell to their deaths off the town walls, while others had heavy objects, such as cast iron stoves, fall on them from the ledge above. It was an informative and entertaining tour with guide Rick, and I would recommend it to anyone who visits Seattle. The tour is 90 minutes in length and the cost is $15.

Next thing on my list is coffee. Coffee is good in Seattle, and probably keeps much of the population not only caffeinated but in the green, as it is so readily available. No doubt, we went to the first-ever Starbuck’s store near Pike Place Market (http://www.pikeplacemarket.org/), shedding light on their popular brew called “Pike Place”. It was decent coffee, but it definitely wasn’t my top cup this trip. We enjoyed a great local brew at Melrose Market’s (http://melrosemarketseattle.com/) Homegrown Sustainable Sandwich Shop located on Capitol Hill. Also worth mentioning is their breakfast sandwich made with local ingredients and packed with flavour. The sandwich comes with a semi-runny egg topped with cheese and avocado on a massive sesame bun, with a side of warm oatmeal. At $6 this is a top economical choice for a hearty and healthy breakfast.


Finally, my best coffee in Seattle was at The Cherry Street Coffee House (http://cherryst.com/) near Pioneer Square, the original site and namesake of the cafĂ©, which has now spread out to four other locales in the city because of its popularity. We were drawn to the place because of the funky neon sign (of which there are many in Seattle, giving it an authentic 1950s vibe), and were pleasantly surprised by the high quality of the food and the complex, but smooth taste of the coffee. I enjoyed a delicious lox and cream cheese bagel, with a side of tomato ginger soup. If you’re looking for a quick, affordable lunch in a comfortable setting, The Cherry Street Coffee House is a fantastic bet.



Stay tuned for more Seattle highlights, including architecture and seafood in my next blog post!

Tuesday, November 16, 2010

Royal Engagement Spins Media Frenzy

The engagement of Prince William to Kate Middleton was officially announced today, and the media is having a field day. This comes as no surprise considering the Royal Family’s celebrity status both in England and the Commonwealth.  Yet, for a Canadian citizen whose royal knowledge is almost non-existent, I was curious to know exactly what it is that makes this event so noteworthy.

So what do we know? We know they are engaged. We know they are to be married sometime next year. And we know that her engagement ring was Princess Diana’s. We are also well aware of the legacy left behind by Diana, and that her divorce may have been one of the factors leading to Prince William waiting so long to propose. He also said in an interview that he wanted to give Kate plenty of time to “back out”. Although it was said partly in jest, William is no stranger to the attention of the media, and is genuinely concerned for the well-being of his future wife. After all, the constant media attention was one of the things Diana found so difficult about being part of the royal family.

Canadian news sources seem to be focusing on the “Royal Romance” aspect of the engagement, noting that instead of the traditional courtship that precedes royal marriages, William and Kate met conventionally, having gone to university together. It is a modern relationship that took over eight years and a few bumps in the road to reach the engagement. For the first time, the royal couple feels within close reach of the public; they appear to have gone through what many couples go through before they tie the knot. Furthermore, Kate comes from a middle-class family who became self-made millionaires rather than being of royal descent. She is the girl next door and she is on her way to becoming not only a princess, but the Queen of England.

For many people, particularly the British, this wedding celebration will be an opportunity for national unity and a way of bringing people together. It is joyous occasion that will be shared in a very public fashion, unlike most celebrity weddings that are done more clandestinely. It is expected that more than 3 billion will watch the event worldwide. Although I never gave the royal family much thought, the media attention speaks to their popularity, and I look forward to learning more about William and Kate, who promise to be a power-couple like we’ve never seen before from the royal family tree. 

Source for photo: http://www.mirror.co.uk
For more information on the royal family and the British monarchy, visit: http://www.royal.gov.uk

Wednesday, November 10, 2010

Fast Food “Artistry” shifts from sandwich to taco

Eating on the go can be challenging, especially if you lead a healthy lifestyle. The easiest thing for me has always been Subway, a quick service restaurant built on the little-known mandate at the time (in Canada they opened in the glorious 80s) of fresh ingredients. Now, after years of eating there and after a few so-called sandwich “artists” have ruined my veggie patty, it’s time for a change.

A niche market for Mexican food lovers has recently emerged in Canada, where burrito eating has become a bit of a sensation.  In the GTA we have places like Big Fat Burrito in Kensington Market and a number of Burrito Boys in the areas of Port Credit and downtown Toronto, to name a few. They represent a revolution of healthy-minded individuals who love the fresh ingredients and spicy flavours of Mexican food, but have been searching for something better than the sad tortillas from Taco Bell.

On the west coast of Vancouver, healthier options include Burrito Bros. Taco Company in Kitsilano. They make all of their food in-house, and their ingredients come in fresh on a daily basis. Homemade tortilla chips and salsa, both roja (red) and verde (green) are included with every meal, a crispy complement to the juicy burritos. Each one is packed to the brim with veggies, rice and beans, and your choice of protein: beef, chicken or Baja fish.  Impressively, they even have veggie “ground round”, a simulated ground meat that most vegetarians are familiar with, but something I have never seen on any restaurant menu. All of these fresh ingredients are topped with zesty pico de gallo, and burrito sauce, but you can also add your own heat with a variety of hot sauces that are the real Mexican deal.

This place is excellent if you’re on a budget, since most of the dishes range from $7-8, and you can get Red Truck on draft for $4.50 and double Margaritas for $6.25. I think you’d be hard-pressed to find a 2 oz. drink anywhere in the city at this price! The atmosphere is casual but colourful in its vibrant Mexican dĂ©cor, and the wait time for your food is usually only 10 minutes, depending on how busy it is. When the weather permits, they have a great sun-facing patio: a perfect place to enjoy a Corona or Pacifico while chomping down on a spicy burrito.

One of the most impressive things about Burrito Bros. is that they have a Buy 10 Get 1 Free card! They even keep it on file for you (don’t worry, it won’t be too hard to find as they are organized by letter and gender). I haven’t seen something like that on offer since the days of Subway stamps, which was discontinued with no clear explanation. I mean, if privately-owned Burrito Bros. can do it, why can’t they?

Burritos Bros. is located at 2209 West 4th Ave. in Kitsilano, Vancouver. Visit their website at http://petedigiboy.com/burritobros/

Monday, October 4, 2010

The Other Side of Nuit Blanche

Saturday night was the fifth year of Scotiabank’s Nuit Blanche in Toronto. The underlying concept is a great one: from sundown to sunrise, local artists present their talents in various spaces around the city. Major arteries like Yonge Street are closed to automobile traffic and open to pedestrians to roam at will. 

One of the luxuries of Nuit Blanche is that you can have a great night at home without rushing out, because you have hours ahead of you to enjoy your Saturday night. However, if you're going to one of the main events, you still have to wait in line, something I wasn't expecting. 

Our primary destination was a big installation at Bay St. Station we had heard about through the grapevine, so we hopped on the subway with myriads of other people in their 20s and 30s, many of whom had the same idea. When we arrived at the Bay platform, we immediately noticed a queue and jumped in. We were quickly informed that the line started outside the station and that people had been waiting there for two hours. The line stretched through the busy platform, up the stairs, through the turnstiles and up more stairs to the street; although the volunteers were monitoring progress, it was mostly chaotic and it wasn’t really clear how they determined the difference between those who had been waiting diligently and those who just snuck into the queue.

Discouraged, we made our way out to Yonge Street and started walking the festival-like atmosphere of Nuit Blanche. The energy was exciting and we were looking forward to seeing the creative minds of Toronto at work, but we walked for blocks and blocks (all the way to King Street) without seeing much, except for an excess of garbage overflowing from bins, and people being sick on the sidewalk from too many drinks. It looked like some people had interpreted Nuit Blanche as a carte blanche to act like complete idiots and have someone else clean up after them.

To a certain extent, this can be blamed on the public, but on the other hand, why wasn’t the city or Scotiabank prepared for the waste overflow from such a huge event? There should be more bins and workers hired to take care of the job throughout the night. If we were seeing piles of garbage at midnight, I can only imagine what it would have looked like at seven in the morning. All that waste took away from the enlightened atmosphere that Nuit Blanche attempts to create.

Getting home on the subway was quick if claustrophobic, but a friend who took the streetcar was not so lucky. She said it was “horribly busy and crowded” and it took her almost two hours to get home. On a regular night, it would take 40 minutes.

My advice if you plan to go next year is to start early, to map out your routes, and to hit up an area like Queen Street West. For this art fanatic however, the overall atmosphere and organization of Nuit Blanche has a long way to come.

Wednesday, September 15, 2010

The Drake Hotel, Not Just for Celebrities and Trend Setters

My first experiences with the Drake Hotel in Toronto consisted of waiting in line to pay cover, or waiting in line to get onto the rooftop patio and then paying $15 for a drink. One time we weasled our way onto the patio for a romantic, delicious dinner an hour and a half after we had arrived; another time I brushed elbows with Adrian Grenier of the hit show Entourage as he prepared for his band to play downstairs. I agree that this is a great spot to spend a summer evening, but it doesn’t always seem worth all of the fuss.

Then I was introduced to the Drake weekend brunch by a good friend, and haven’t turned back since. You have a few options as to where you want to dine: there is the Drake CafĂ©, located on the west side of the hotel, which has a casual, simple patio; the spacious and uniquely decorated bar area; or the darker atmosphere of the restaurant itself. All dining occurs on the main floor for breakfast, but dinner includes service on the rooftop patio or “Sky Yard”, on fashionable benches covered with pillows, giving it a Mata Hari harem sort of feel, but with lighter overtones.

The nice thing about breakfast is that it is a casual meal, and you usually don’t have to wait in line to get in. We did wait on one occasion, but they brought us melt-in-your-mouth mini croissants with jam, and all was quickly copacetic. They offer healthy options, such as granola and fresh fruit, but if you’re like me, when you go out for brunch on the weekends you want something hearty. I personally enjoy ordering eggs Benedict the morning after an evening of red wine, but they can be a risky choice. Some places will overcook your poached eggs, so that you miss out on that mingling of egg yolk, hollandaise, and ketchup. This is no good. But at the Drake, they always poach their eggs perfectly. And I will make this bold statement, but only because it’s true: the Drake Eggs Caleb is my favourite breakfast in Toronto. It comes with scrumptious smoked salmon, and hand cut French fries that marry exquisitely with the hollandaise sauce. The restaurant also offers unique choices like Southern Fried Chicken and Waffles, which comes with sweet Niagara cherry jam; this may sound like an odd combination, but it works. Especially for hangovers.

One of the most appealing things about the hotel space is the eccentric dĂ©cor. It is artistic, trend setting, and has a gallery feel to it, which makes the experience one-of-a-kind. In the restaurant area, the walls are covered in life size pictures of a forest, illuminated in a way that reminds me of the Science Center in the 1980s. It works in modern decor because of our environmental consciousness and return to grass roots, especially in Toronto where the eco-friendly population is massive. There has also been a move towards nature in the decorating world, where we are seeing more and more natural wood, deer antlers, and other elements you’d expect to see at a cottage or a ranch.  Some of the decorating choices are really out there; I’m referring to the very realistic reproduction of the upper torso of a man, and his partially bald crown, replete with real hair on both his head and his back. It hits you as you come down the stairs from the patio and/or washrooms, and it is hard to avoid. I’m not completely sold on that piece, but overall, I’d like to get the name of their interior designer. The one recommendation I have for the Drake is to sort out the washrooms upstairs, because the smell was off-putting, and took away from the positive experience of the hotel.

If you don’t get a chance to try the fabulous blueberry scones during your meal, be sure to take some to go. They are a delectable way to reward yourself for being so forward thinking, and going to the Drake for breakfast.

The Drake Hotel is located at 1150 Queen St. W., Toronto. For more information, visit the Drake Hotel website at http://www.thedrakehotel.ca/dining/menu

Thursday, September 9, 2010

When You Feel Like a Radio Station was Made for You

I know I speak for the masses in Toronto when I say that the radio culture has been going downhill there for years. When I first moved back to the GTA from the U.K. in 2005, there were still a few options: 93.5 was still old school hip hop and rap; 99.9 had a decent mix of new music and older classics; 104.5 hadn’t gone completely mainstream yet. However, by the time I left in 2010, most radio stations had become a melting pot of pop music, played on repeat. Often times I would switch stations, only to hear the same refrain from the same song. The only station I will really miss is 102.1, and even then, they go a little extreme-screamy-grunge sometimes, which I can only handle in small doses.

It was difficult to leave the amazing land of BBC Radio One in England, and with apologies to the CBC, nothing in Canada ever really compared to that experience. Until now.

I’ll admit that I was a bit nervous moving here, as my first summer  was littered with bad radio and scrolling through a lot of static, but then someone mentioned “The Peak” and I remembered the rogue, relatively little-known station with lots of potential, which had emerged at the end of last summer.

In the past year that station has found its identity and its audience, and my days of switching stations are over. It’s such a refreshing change to sit back and relax while driving, instead of fumbling with dials or changing songs on your IPod. Their tagline is “World Class Rock” and they play a mix of the soundtrack from my high school life (which happened in the mid to late 90s when alternative/rock music was at an all-time high), and new music that is both well-known and less-known, introducing new and local artists who are pumping out organic sound and powerful lyrics.

Today I enjoyed Beck’s “Girl”, Pearl Jam’s “Elderly Woman Behind the Counter in a Small Town”, “The High Road” by Broken Bells, “Cigarette” by Jeremy Fisher, “Ready to Start” by Arcade Fire, and the new single “Radioactive” by Kings of Leon. More seasoned bands like Sublime, The Kinks, U2, Red Hot Chili Peppers, The Killers, and U2 also appeared on their playlist today. Sigh. I think I’m in love.

The Peak can be found at 100.5 FM, or for those who are outside the Vancouver area, you can stream the music on the web at http://www.thepeak.fm/

Tuesday, September 7, 2010

Sweet and Savoury Fusion Food is a Guaranteed Treat

Most people know by now that I am a foodie who loves to try new restaurants and experience great cuisine. Thus, it is a testament to high quality that the first place I returned to upon my arrival to Vancouver was The Flying Tiger. Sensory recall can be some of the most vivid in memory making, and The Flying Tiger never fails to deliver excellent results.

Coined as “Asian Street Food”, the menu entices the taste buds with a selection of curries, dumplings, short ribs and noodles, all using local ingredients. Most people who frequent The Flying Tiger treat it as a tapas restaurant so that they can sample several flavours throughout the evening. Although we have tried different specialties, we are always drawn to two things: the Roti Canai and the Pulled Duck Confit Crepes.

The Roti Canai consists of Malaysian fry bread with a yellow curry dipping sauce that is to die for. It is a thick curry that balances both sweet and savoury, and it always leaves you craving more. A woman at the table next to us was gushing about it, and said she wanted to eat it with a spoon she loved it so much. It was like she was reading my mind.

As for the crepes, the duck confit is tender and has a citrusy-orange taste that is complemented by a crisp jicama and cucumber slaw, and lots of fresh Vietnamese herbs such as mint and basil. It comes with mini sesame oil pancakes, and half the fun of eating it comes in putting the crepe together yourself. You can take your time smelling the fresh herbs before making your pick, and you can add as little or as much of the duck or slaw as you want. But the result is always the same: a delicious combination of flavours that command your attention and stay with you in the hours, days and weeks to follow.

The Flying Tiger is located at 2958 W 4th Ave. between Balaclava and Bayswater St. It is often busy, even on weeknights, so a reservation is recommended. You can book a reservation by calling or by filling in a form online: http://www.theflyingtiger.ca/

Tuesday, August 31, 2010

Surviving the Wet Coast

My first week in Vancouver was relatively uneventful and mild in terms of the weather – a few hot days at the beginning, followed by cooler days in the high teens (not exactly beach weather, but still nice enough to go for a walk along the Fraser River). After dealing with over 40 degrees of humidity back in Ontario, I was surprised to hear that most people don’t use air conditioning here. This bodes well for summers to come on the west coast.

I have never been one who dealt well with gloomy weather, but every time my hands were on the verge of frostbite this year, even with gloves on in the car, I figured any rainy day would be better than suffering through the double digit negatives out east.

Time will tell whether or not that is the truth, but for today, there is rain. And more rain. And more rain. I’m no weather girl, but you can often sense that the rain will end in reasonable time in Toronto, whereas my powers of prediction are lost out here. So when I embarked for the day in flip flops, I was on a mission for one thing: rain boots.

I went to Winners, hoping for a deal, as rain boots are unexpectedly expensive. Maybe because my only experience with them is “duckies”, the most popular shoe in my elementary school. To my dismay, Winners only had one style, a gold and blue flashy boot, which at $80 wasn’t really what I was going for. Instead, I went to The Bay, which just happens to be where I used to get my duckies, and after trying on the less comfortable no-name brand, saw some rain boots out of the corner of my eye. I recognized them as the rain boots from my dreams; the kind with a little white square at the front that says “Hunter”. Ever since I spied them on a friend in Montreal, I hoped for my own.

Everything inside me was telling me not to do it, but I took off my flip flops, put on my socks, and slipped one on. It fit like a glove. I walked around a little, debated a lot, wondered about the fact that I am unemployed, and brought them up to the cash. If I am going to survive the Vancouver rain, it is worth investing in the right footwear.

Ironically, the sales woman told me that I was the second girl from Ontario that she had sold boots to that day. Looks like I wasn’t the only one who was ill-prepared.

True to form (I used to wear new shoes to bed when I was younger just so I could wear them right away), I put the boots on in the store, and walked out confidently into the rainy weather. I have no fear.

Friday, August 27, 2010

Days Six and Seven: Roughing it in Magnificent, Cold Lake Louise

On the way down from Plain of Six Glaciers
Reluctantly, on Sunday morning we left Fernie to head back north and east to Lake Louise/Banff. Although it was out of the way, I had heard such wonderful things about the area and I felt that my cross country adventure would be missing something important if it was bypassed.

We stopped in the ski destination of Invermere, B.C. for groceries and some lunch on the way up, treating ourselves to a sit down meal before heading into a few days of eating on a camp stove in the wilderness. As we drove down the main street, we saw signs for Ray Ray’s Beach Pub, which claimed to have the best view in town. Easily convinced, we drove through the few blocks of the main strip and sat down looking out onto the mountains, a pond with a fountain, and the crisscrossing lines of the railroad track and electric poles. It was an artful view, but perhaps if we had been sitting outside (it had started to rain and was cooler now) we would have seen impressive Windermere Lake. The food was typical Canadian pub food: I devoured a sweet Thai chicken wrap with yam fries and salad, while Nick dined on a beef sandwich.

Lake Louise, Alberta is a tiny village with one main plaza (Samson Mall), which includes a few restaurants, a grocery store, gift shops, and a visitor centre. We spoke to a very helpful woman in the welcome centre, who gave us detailed information on hiking in the area, and where we could find the best vistas for taking photographs. We paid $6 for four litres of water (a forgotten item on our grocery trip in Invermere), and decided not to spend hundreds of dollars on warmer gear in Wilson Mountain Sports. My advice is to do your research on the weather (we were seriously underprepared for the cold mountain air), and make your grocery list and check it twice!

Our first evening was rainy and somewhat miserable. We shivered in weather that went down to 2 degrees Celsius, dreaming of toques, mitts, rain pants, long underwear – all things that were nicely packed away in a container on its way to Vancouver. In a few moments of weakness we considered going home; we were exhausted after the move and the drive and were just too darn cold. However, we steeled ourselves and got geared up for a hike around Lake Louise on Monday morning.

Although you are able to see beautiful views of the lake and mountains from just making your way around the lake, we wanted to do a proper hike to the ‘top’ of Plain of Six Glaciers, which had been recommended to us. The lake water is a turquoise blue and is an absolute complement to the dark, snow-capped mountains that form a curve at its tail end (from the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise). Hiking along the shore is light and easy: you can take your time, stop to take photos, say hello to fellow travellers. One of my favourite things about hiking around the world is the number of different languages you hear along the way: Japanese, Chinese, French, Italian, Dutch, German and British tourists walked with us, ahead of us, around us. You feel a sense of global community by sharing in this experience with such a diverse population.

As you move beyond the lake, the trail starts to move upwards and becomes a little tighter; moving into the higher latitudes it is harder to breathe as the air gets thinner. It is a good idea to wear layers for the hike, as you start to warm up with the exercise of getting to the top. However, once you get there and settle in for a few minutes, you will want to layer up against the mountain chill in the air.

At the top, there is a tea house that was built in the 1920s by Swiss guides and still hosts a variety of food and drink today. They helicopter the raw goods and propane (there is no electricity) once a season, while the fresh goods come in on horseback or with the staff almost daily. Make certain you have some cash with you, as a nice, hot tea is a great treat after your 5.5 km hike! We ate our own packed lunch on the upper level of the tea house, enjoying a great view as we took a break from our efforts.

Afterwards, we treated ourselves to the hot springs in Banff. Not a huge space, it still has an impressive view of the mountains, and was a warm 39 degrees. Before heading downtown, we stopped at the Indian Trading Post, where we found toques for $5 (what a deal!) and some Manitobah Mukluks (slippers) to warm my feet on cold winter (or summer in this case) nights. We walked around Banff town, enjoying a coffee from one of the three Evelyn’s Coffee shops along the main street. There is a relatively good variety of stores and restaurants; overall, Banff is an inviting place that I would like to spend more time in.

Our evening was filled with attending to the campfire, drinking Fernie pale ale, and singing Sam Roberts. I’ve never felt so Canadian. It was an ideal end to a cross country trip filled with diverse history, landscapes and people. I love this country.

Wednesday, August 25, 2010

Day Five: Beautiful Fernie, B.C.

Castle Rocks hike
Fernie is a little known town, but is definitely worth a visit. It has a delightful main street with over one hundred years of history, and includes most of the amenities we are accustomed to in the big city. However, the wonderful thing about Fernie is the 360 degrees of pure mountain beauty meeting you at every corner. It includes a few restaurants, both casual and upscale; we grabbed a quick bite at Big Bang Bagel, one of the many shops on the main strip with a clever name, and found much needed energy for our day hike in the signature breakfast bagel. The town also has some great specialty stores, such as Womb to Grow, a maternity shop run by a doula (a woman trained to help during pregnancy, birth, and after the baby is born).

Our big adventure for the day was a 3 hour hike (return) to Castle Rocks. After twisting around a gravel road for several minutes, we parked on a side road and embarked from there. It is not that well marked for visitors from out of town, but fortunately we had a guide, a good friend from Ontario who purchased a condo there last year.

We followed three trails to get to the top: Roots, Hyperventilation, and Castle Rocks. Roots was mostly flat, wide and easy going as a trail, but it started to get steeper and was one-track after that. In difficulty it was a “Blue” which turned into a “Black Diamond”, the same rating they use for ski trails. For much of the hike we were in the woods, but when we approached Castle Rock itself, a dark orange and grey entity that rises starkly against the blue sky, the trail opened up. The views were magnificent panoramas of mountains with grey tops and green slopes, which lead down into the valley where the town resides. You can see Fernie Alpine Ski Resort, while The Three Sisters rock formation stands out above the rest of the mountains, majestic.

Mountain bikers are known to walk their bikes up the mountain and then bike back down. It seems like a magnificent thing, but much too extreme for my liking! Overall, Fernie is a wonderful place for those who love the outdoors; it is a haven for people who like to hike, bike, camp or swim, and is full of friendly people.

Day Four: A Welcome Transition

One of many windmills near the AB/BC border
Distance: 839 km
Time on the road: 9 hours
Highlight: Crowsnest Pass

We were off to an early start again, but this time we enjoyed the complimentary breakfast at The Holiday Inn Express before hitting the road for Moosejaw, which is less than an hour from Regina.

Moosejaw downtown, although small, holds much history and is charming in its own right. It has connections to Al Capone in the 1920s, the time of prohibition and high crime, and the city also has links to Chinese immigration of the early 20th century; men who were hired to do the dangerous task of building the railroad for the CPR; families seeking refuge from a time of political turmoil in the Far East. The Tunnels of Moosejaw tour covers the history of the town, and although we did not have time to take a tour, we did hear great things about it and at least got to enjoy the black and white photo museum depicting the early days of the town.

The drive was monotonous prairie for a long time, but when we approached the Alberta/B.C. border the view started to shift from wide plains topped with sky to rolling fields framed by the Kootenay mountains. I was somewhat overwhelmed by all of the new things to see: valleys, rivers, windmills upon windmills. Even the hay bales seemed artistically arranged by this point.

We were heading into Crowsnest Pass, a well known area to west coast dwellers, and a beautiful drive most cross country travellers miss because they usually pass through Calgary. However, we were headed south to Fernie, B.C., approximately 30 minutes from the Alberta border.

Crowsnest Pass features winding roads and mountains both green with trees and grey with impressive rock. We paused for a snack at Leitch Collieries in the pass, and learned that the NWMP were stationed there over one hundred years ago to patrol people illegally hiding cattle there on the way to the U.S. It also served as a coal mine, one of the most important resources in the area.

Once we entered B.C., very inconspicuously as the provincial border is not well marked, we paused for a pit stop in Sparwood to witness the World’s Largest Truck. Its tires doubled my height, and oddly enough, it looked like it was even road ready. One thing to note for travellers heading west – most provinces provide free road maps, which vary in specificity, however in British Columbia you have to pay for one!

Saturday, August 21, 2010

Drinks in two Capital Cities: Regina, Saskatchewan (Day Three, Part Two)

The Prairies as we entered Saskatchewan
After our pit stop in Winnipeg, we embarked on our prairie adventure. Remarkably, for the first few hundred kilometres of the prairies, I really enjoyed the stark contrast to Northern Ontario. I even asked aloud: “Am I the only person who likes the prairies?” The province of Manitoba still has some geographic features to offer – a few minor rolling hills and tree formations, little lakes here and there, probably man-made for irrigation purposes. I discovered beauty in the symmetry of the great wide open; the perfectly spaced electric and railroad poles that look like religious crosses and the endless fields of yellow and green topped with blue skies. The prairies remind me of a Van Gogh painting rather than what I originally pictured as a Nevada highway. Still, I was amazed by what Manitobans refer to as “roads”. Anything off of Highway One was essentially a dusty or muddy or grassy mess, and trucks brewed up dust clouds that followed them like a train as we saw them pull off the main road. One wonders if small cars ever survive this terrain.

At 5 p.m. I looked around at the emptiness around me, the lack of cars, amenities, anything, and thought of rush hour traffic in the GTA. We went a steady 120 km/h the entire distance between Winnipeg and Regina (save a bit of roadwork), and the two lanes were a huge relief from the one lane of Highways 69 and 17 in Ontario.

About 100 km out of Regina I get it. The prairies are long and flat. They last for what seems like forever or maybe they represent what limbo feels like. I acquiesce to all those people who warned me about them.

However, one of the good things about driving west is that you gain a few hours in your travels. We set the clocks back one more hour before hitting Regina, so we arrived there with plenty of time to settle in and go out for a pleasant dinner at The Roof Top Bar and Grill downtown (http://therooftop.ca/). We ate outside surrounded by dark wood features and silvery aluminum table tops; there were two fire pits in each corner of the patio, and the trendy folk of Regina sprawled around them gossiping into the night. The service was attentive and friendly, and the meal affordable. Two salads, two meals (including a 14 oz. prime rib!), a bottle of Lindeman’s Cabernet Sauvignon and a three cheesecake sampler for dessert was under $100. What a nice change from big city dining!

Our sleeping accommodation was the Holiday Inn Express, which was conveniently located downtown close to the bars and restaurants. The room was well-sized, and had a spacious bathroom. We were told we had to pay for parking and I was surprised to hear it was $6. Again, it is always great to find that things are cheaper than you expect. I would highly recommend both the restaurant and the hotel if you choose to stop in Regina on your cross country travels.

Day Four entails more prairie-driving through Saskatchewan and Alberta, and then finally, the arrival into mountainous B.C. Stay tuned for more news!

Drinks in Two Capital Cities: Winnipeg, Manitoba (Day Three, Part 1)

Baja Beach Club, The Forks, Winnipeg
Today was an easy go as compared to Day 2. We woke up early due to the time change to a mist-covered Lake of the Woods, and watched fishing boats and floatplanes motor off into the distance. The Best Western was comfortable and had a good view, but unless you like to hunt or fish, Kenora doesn’t really seem worth the stop.

We were excited to see that the Safeway grocery store also included a Starbuck’s, and paid $6 for a coffee and a latte (thank goodness for a gift card!) and were on the road before 8 a.m. The drive around the lake was picturesque, and we even saw a mama and baby deer on the side of the road before getting to the Manitoba border, which came more quickly than expected.

A pit stop to the tourism office was helpful: we picked up a map of Winnipeg and got some information about a short hike near West Hawk Lake, an appealing camping area just off Highway One. Approximately 4 km from the tourism office, we got off on Highway 44 and parked at the Nite Hawk Café, a place known for its delicious home-cooked food. We walked through a wooded area from the trailhead in the café parking lot, an area that serves cross country skiing in the winter.

A few hours later we arrived at The Forks historic/tourist area in Winnipeg , which was charming and full of local colour and culture. There is a nice walk along the Assiniboine River, and The Forks Market area has a lot to offer in terms of food, both fresh and prepared, in addition to clothing and other shops. The architecture and layout is reminiscent of other markets around the globe, including Covent Garden in London and Granville Island in Vancouver.

In need of a place to charge my camera battery, we were drawn in to The Baja Beach Club, where our waiter kindly served us mojitos, recharging our spirits along with my camera. We had a nice view of the river and could see both the pedestrian and rail bridges on either side of the outdoor patio. It seemed like a great spot to grab a cold beer on a hot summer afternoon or night. Overall, I think Winnipeg would be worth the visit for a few nights in the summertime. The people are friendly, the atmosphere light and fun, and there is a lot of history to be found.

Friday, August 20, 2010

Day Two: The Marathon through Marathon

Terry Fox Monument
The cross country drive is a huge undertaking, and not one to be taken lightly. Unfortunately, when you are moving across in addition to doing the drive, you don’t necessarily find the time to do all the research! The trip has been great so far, albeit much longer than expected. Today we covered approximately 1200 km, our biggest day, and a hard one to fathom when you are on Google Maps; it is a much different experience in person!

The first part of our journey from Sault Ste. Marie was along Lake Superior – a breathtaking and magnificent drive. We all know that the Great Lakes are just that: great or large or grand, but until you physically make your way around one of them, it’s hard to understand their vastness. I also enjoyed all of the little lakes along Highway 17. All clearly labelled: Rouse, Black Fox, Red Rock, and my favourite group of lakes, Mom, Dad and Baby just outside of Wawa! And the mountainous vistas and turquoise water near Rossport (between Marathon and Thunder Bay) made it difficult to keep my attention to writing. This area reminded me of the islands, mountains and ocean views near Horseshoe Bay in B.C. Overall, I highly recommend the drive across Ontario to Thunder Bay, as it is one of the most rewarding travel experiences I have had.

Although we got a few hours of downpour before Wawa, we were blessed with mostly blue skies and only intermittent clouds. My goal of getting photographed with things “larger than life” did get rained out, but I managed a quick photo of the Canada Goose at the Wawa Tourism Office before skipping over puddles to get back to the car.

As this was our longest travel day, we wanted to make up some time by driving a little over the speed limit. Unfortunately, the OPP are everywhere on the Trans-Canada and we got pulled over. The speed limit is 90 km/hr and we were doing 120 km. Perhaps because of our charming apology, or perhaps because we were moving to another jurisdiction in the country, we got off with a warning and a reminder about the dangers of moose along the route. Apparently they have bad vision and can’t distinguish cars.

Just before Thunder Bay we stopped at the Terry Fox Monument. I think it is important to take advantage of moments where you can just stop and reflect about the heroes who have shaped our country's history. We all know him as an inspiring figure for his courage and perseverance, but he also represents all of the qualities we hope to have as Canadians. The province has done a great job with the monument, set high upon a hill with a panoramic view of Lake Superior, and it is worth the stop.

We took a longer break in Thunder Bay to have an early dinner. There wasn’t much in the way of selection for a casual place with decent food, but we were lucky and found a restaurant called Gargoyles which had a good atmosphere and decent salads. After a day of sitting in the car, we were looking for something a little healthier, and were pleased with our choice. It was affordable and hit the spot.

The last part of the drive from Thunder Bay to Kenora was a struggle, as we had been in the car for so many hours already and just wanted to settle down for the night. Still, just when you think you’ve become immune to the beauty of the natural landscape, Canada hits you with an unreal sunset that captures both your attention and your spirit.

We arrived in Kenora, Ontario at 11:30 p.m. (10:30 with the time change) to the Best Western Lakeview Inn on The Lake of the Woods. We crumpled into separate beds and took some time to wind down after an epic day. Stay tuned for Day Three of the journey – through the Prairies!

Thursday, August 19, 2010

The Journey Across the Country: Day One

Sault Ste. Marie waterway (North Channel of L. Superior)
We set off Tuesday morning from Toronto, about an hour later than planned, as leaving the house in a respectable state took longer than expected. My fiancé and I are taking on the cross Canada trip as we move our lives to Vancouver, B.C. Luckily, we have someone else doing the driving for most of the big stuff, like furniture and boxes upon boxes of books, but the Mazda 3 needed to make the journey too, and us with it.

Our first day was relatively smooth – arriving in Sault Ste. Marie after approximately eight and a half hours of driving. The new four lane highway leading into Sudbury was a pleasant surprise, and we chuckled at the ineptitude of the GPS to track our progress (it turns out they really do need updating every few months). We dined on Tim Horton’s for both breakfast and dinner, a fact that shouldn’t be a shock to most Canadians, but for some reason we believed that at some point we might be able to get a nicely brewed coffee from somewhere like Starbuck’s. No such deal.

The Sault (Soo) proved to impress more than expected. Although truly “in the middle of nowhere” for those of us from Toronto who are used to driving only 2-3 hours to get to northern cottage destinations, it’s natural beauty is very appealing and worth the trek into the wilderness.

It is enveloped by a variety of deciduous trees and has a sunset to die for. According to our guide (a good friend who is from the Soo), Gros Cap is the best place for sunset vistas, but it is now closed to the public. We ventured out to Hiawatha Falls, a 25-minute drive from the airport, and enjoyed rolling waters cascading down the zigzagging rocks there. A mini-hike in flip flops brought us to the top of the falls, where you gander at your own risk, as there is no protective barrier between you and the rocky waters.

Next, we took a short stroll along the St. Mary’s boardwalk that snakes around the river, and watched the sun go down beyond the patchwork bridges on the American side of the water. We finished our evening along the water on Pine Shore Drive, and watched the high, bright half moon framed by windswept pine trees, as the stars peeked out one at a time and freighters billowed by.

The fog horns, pre-empted by a low rumble in our cabin, woke us up briefly in the night, but their mysterious and fascinating interruption was welcome. I haven’t slept that well in weeks. And it was a good thing because Day Two proved to be a marathon of a drive…stay tuned for the next instalment!

Wednesday, August 11, 2010

Oliver and Bonacini: Pleasing to the Eye and the Appetite

Red Snapper special
A few weeks ago, my family was getting together for one last reunion before my parents set off to Mexico. We needed to find an accessible location during Friday evening rush hour for people coming from Milton, Oakville, Toronto and Burlington both by car and by train. I suggested the new Oliver and Bonacini at Oakville Place.

Conveniently located less than a five minute drive from the Oakville GO Station, this venue turned out to be the ideal choice for our last supper. I always get a bit nervous choosing restaurants for my family, because my parents are both ‘foodies’ who cook well and enjoy fine dining. So it was nice to impress them with this choice – a restaurant that is both pleasing to the appetite and not too heavy on the wallet.

Although they have a mixed repertoire of food on the menu, it is primarily Italian, and they do their food very well. Most of us opted for seafood: tender scallops with artichoke and fresh parmesan, grilled calamari in a lemon brown butter sauce, and a scrumptious looking portion of battered fish and chips. The special of the evening was a red snapper with jerk roasted potatoes, wilted spinach, pineapple salsa, and a plantain that served both decoratively and as an accent flavour to the rest of the dish.

The service is also worth mentioning; our waitress was professional and charming, and attentive to our sometimes unique requests. And for those who are interested in the aesthetics and overall atmosphere of a restaurant, this gets top rating. In an industry where the trend has become low lighting and dark furniture (think Milestones or Moxie’s’ west coast influences), Oliver and Bonacini comes as a refreshing surprise. There are clean lines in white and silver, with darker accents in the seating areas. Birch and greenery dot the landscape, which is decorated with images of food and the environment it comes from. You can see part of the kitchen from the dining area: a high marble counter with low lighting in white and silver, and decorated with preserves and other food items, as well as recipe books in the shelves along the front.

The atmosphere was a bit quiet for a Friday night, but perhaps it is because they are still building a reputation. I hope this recommendation brings them the busy nights they deserve!

Friday, July 23, 2010

Why Inception is Worth All the Buzz

Christopher Nolan, known for directing the legendary movies Memento, Batman Begins, and The Dark Knight, has done it again with his new movie Inception. The writing, direction, special effects, and ability to create a believable reality within the science fiction genre, make Christopher Nolan a force to be reckoned with, and certainly an Oscar contender.

As a writer, plot is very important to me. One of the most disappointing things about movie-going is to see an action or science fiction movie that lacks a good story. For example, and I know some people will have my head for this, but Avatar, despite it’s amazing special effects and new advancements in CGI technology, lacked an original storyline. I felt like I was watching Fern Gully; it was a recycled plot about the exploitation of natural resources, with a typical “star-crossed lovers” love story.

However, Inception delves into the sci-fi of the dream world in a unique and even realistic way. What the characters deal with psychologically and emotionally is plausible, and the actors do a phenomenal job of unravelling the complexities of coping with the human psyche. There are symbolic elements in the movie to make the story even sharper, such as the “totem” which determines whether you are in a dream or in the real world. The classic representation of the subconscious as the open sea – wild and unpredictable – is also aptly done.

The repetition of phrases and emotion-filled memories replicates what many people experience in the dream state, or when they are dealing with emotional trauma. Further, the use of silence and visual cues, expertly conveyed by the actors, contributes to the overall mysterious atmosphere of the movie, where you are never truly sure what is real and what is imagined.

Although some elements of the plot and action are derivative of The Matrix series, I think of them as more of a commemorative “toast” to the Wachowski brothers, who pioneered so many new ideas and techniques in their movie making. Like The Matrix, Inception explores the choice between living in a world we create through our imagination, or to live in the “real” world, with all of its limitations on both morality and mortality. In addition, Nolan’s film organically creates action scenes; using wires and an infinite number of cameras, characters fight mid-air in a hotel hallway, similar to the subway station scene in The Matrix. This gives the movie a more natural feel than CGI.

The comedic conflict between Arthur and Eames will certainly have audiences laughing out loud, while home-grown Ellen Page delivers a stellar performance as an innocent student whose intelligence and gumption lead her to a better understanding of the human mind than most characters in the movie. To me, Leonardo DiCaprio is a seasoned actor who is as good as it gets, and he lives up to the high standard he set for himself in movies such as The Departed and Shutter Island. Other standout performances by Joseph Gordon-Levitt (from 500 Days of Summer), Ken Watanabe, Cillian Murphy and Marion Cotillard, are not to be missed.

The Real Pizza Experience at Pizzeria Libretto

Well, ladies and gentleman, I have found it. The pizza crust that true pizza lovers dream about can be found at Pizzeria Libretto on Ossington. It’s thin, melts in your mouth, and has that natural taste that only real pizza ovens from Naples, Italy can bring. This pizzeria is the only certified “Vera Pizza Napoletana” in Canada, translated as a “true Neopolitan pizza” experience. When you taste pizza like this, you wonder how places like Pizza Pizza can even claim to be selling the same thing. They should be ashamed of themselves!

Unfortunately, I’m not the only pizza aficionado who feels this way about Pizzeria Libretto. It is a hugely popular spot, so expect to be waiting at least half an hour to be seated. We went on a Monday, thinking we could avoid the line, but we still had to wait 45 minutes before we got a table. The convenient thing is, and it makes you wonder why every restaurant doesn’t do this, they take down your cell phone number to call you when the table becomes available. That way, you can go for a drink elsewhere while you’re waiting.

And it’s worth it. Your taste buds will be satiated while you wait for the pizza, with fresh bread and olive oil with a dash of chilli spice. I sampled two pizzas: the “Hot Peppers” and the “Duck Confit”. The first pizza consisted of house made sausage, fresh basil, tomato, mozzarella in small concentric slices, and of course, hot peppers. Being a fan of spicy food, I will say that I could have taken the hot peppers a little hotter, but otherwise, the pizza was terrific. The sausage was fresh and had some kick to it, and I just couldn’t get enough of that crust. On the other hand, the unique duck confit pizza with pears and a white sauce was a sweet alternative to the more traditional tomato pizza, and the flavours were expertly combined.

We ordered two bottles of red wine between six of us, and each ordered our own pizza. Even with the alcohol, it was a very affordable meal, at approximately $36 including tax and tip. The service is friendly, and they are gracious about taking any leftovers home. You might wonder how I avoided eating the whole pizza right then and there; it was challenging, but my will power paid off for a delicious lunch the next day.

When the pizza crust is right, my favourite thing to do is fold the pizza over itself, for a multi-layered bite; my friend Nicole like to roll hers up like a wrap, and let the olive oil drizzle down. Whichever way you like it, Pizzeria Libretto will live up to your expectations.

Pizzeria Libretto: 221 Ossington Ave., Toronto, just south of Dundas.

Monday, July 5, 2010

Recommended Summer Reads

Here are a few summer reads to get your list started. There is a focus on Canadian historical literature so far, but I will add more titles soon.

Alias Grace by Margaret Atwood
This historical novel is based on the true story of Grace Marks, a servant girl from Ireland and a celebrated murderess, who divided social opinion in the mid-1800s, as many believed she was innocent. It takes place in Richmond Hill, Toronto and Kingston, and Atwood does a meticulous job of weaving Grace’s tale with accurate details from the social and economic realms of the time. Dr. Jordan has a curiosity for the ebbs and flows of the human mind and memory, and interviews Grace, to see if he can recover any clues to her innocence. Grace narrates her tale, full of trial and tribulation; a girl who just happened to be in the wrong place, at the wrong time. She tells of precise memories both believable and inconceivable, leaving the reader to decide whether Grace is speaking the truth. A real mystery, this novel plunges the reader into a colourful time period, rife with superstition, spirituality, and extraordinary theories about the landscape of the human mind.


The Birth House
by Ami McKay
Set in Nova Scotia in the early 20th century, this novel focuses on a young woman named Dora Rare, who is learning the secrets and mysteries of being a midwife from the wise, spiritual Miss Babineau. It explores the tensions between old world medicine and new world ideas from Dr. Thomas, who pushes to open a clinic for pregnant women near the small town of Scots Bay. This novel explores Dora's journey from a young, easy influenced teenager, who must deal with town gossip, the trials and upstarts of young love, and the tragedy of losses both big and small, to an experienced, confident woman. McKay's descriptive, historical prose, and insight into the hearts and minds of women at the time, make this an indelible summer read.

Friday, June 25, 2010

On the Hunt for the Perfect Italian Pizza

Italy may have lost the qualifying game for the knockout stage of the World Cup, but it will always win when it comes to food. I have recently had a love affair with thin crust pizza, which all started after eating the finest specimen at La Bottega in Montreal in March (see article “Baguettes, butter and cheese…”). Now it has become a game of trying to find that pizza again. It is a familiar emotion for foodies everywhere – you sample something so delicious at a restaurant (this is usually coupled with a positive atmosphere and experience with friends), and yearn to relive that experience again. This is my dilemma and also my mission this summer: I am on the hunt for the perfect Italian pizza.

Attempt #1: Terrazza Restaurant, 372 Harbord St., Toronto (one block east of Ossington)

This restaurant is situated in an area of Toronto called Dufferin Grove, and the front patio of Terrazza (which literally means “terrace”) certainly lives up to the name, as it is bordered by trees both coniferous and deciduous. It is charming in its modest size and strings of white lights hung across red brick walls, and the staff is friendly and accommodating. We ordered a fabulous pitcher of Sangria for $20, a great deal, and enjoyed the complimentary bread, olives and olive oil. As most Friday nights call for, we opted for two pizzas; the first, a classic margharita pizza with bocconcini, and the second, a spicy salami pizza with gorgonzola and peppers. They were both thin crust, delicious, and hit the spot, and the whole meal was very affordable, so I would definitely recommend this restaurant.

Attempt #2: Marcello’s Pizzeria, 3175 Rutherford Rd., Vaughan

Marcello’s (pronounced with a “che” sound), was recommended by someone who knows Italian food well, as her family is from Agrigento, Sicily. A group of us shared delightful seafood appetizers of calamari, both grilled and fried, and mussels in a tomato-based sauce. The flavours married well with the fresh lemon slices, and it was hard to resist both the appetizers and the fresh bread with spicy olive oil. Of course, in my desire to recreate my thin crust pizza experience, I choose the “Diavola” pizza with spicy peppers, spicy salami, olives, onions and mozzarella, which turned out to be very good. Although the spiciness caused me to pause a few times to wipe my eyes, the pizza was flavourful and had a nice crust, cooked just right. The staff was also very kind, and even let us bring in our own birthday cake, a rare treat in the restaurant industry. If you are heading to Vaughan Mills and are looking for a good dinner place, this would be a good, affordable bet.

Despite my two very positive experiences at these restaurants, I still have not found the perfect Italian pizza. Is it out there? Who knows. I may need to return to Montreal, or even fly to Naples, to find out. But in the meantime, Toronto and the rest of the GTA will be my dinner plate as the hunt continues. Let me know if you have any restaurant suggestions for me to try out!

Saturday, May 29, 2010

Women in the 1960s according to Mad Men

I have a slight addiction to watching television shows on DVD, and my most recent obsession is Mad Men. Although I watched the first season when it first came out in 2007, I was put off by the protagonist, Don Draper. He came across as having little to no redeeming qualities, and I found him hard to identify with. But with all the buzz and awards attributed to the show, I decided to give it a second chance. Now, I can’t get enough of it, and find various excuses to watch it instead of doing work, and to bring it up as a point of conversation. Sadly, many people haven’t seen it! Perhaps I can convince you otherwise.

As a starting point, I think it’s important to note the time period in which the show is set: the 1960s. It was an era jam-packed with historical significance; the unprecedented changes in race relations, politics, fashion, gender roles, science and technology, and social customs make a perfect recipe for any dramatic screenwriter. Yet, it would be very easy to do this all wrong. For example, the movie Down with Love. Despite the fact that I really do love this movie, it satirizes the drama of the 1960s, particularly Betty Frieden’s The Feminine Mystique, with a fairy tale ending in which female empowerment is complete.

However, Mad Men takes a more realistic look at the challenges of womanhood at the time, identifying how difficult it is for many women to take control of their desires (both physically and intellectually), in a society still mostly ruled by men. Perfectly sexy Joan Holloway is the “ideal” secretary: she is discreet, pro-active, and has a rack that makes Pamela Anderson look bad. The ad men therefore love her, and many of them tumble over their words just looking at her. Joan’s character takes control of all situations according to her job description, but when she is asked to help with reading television scripts as a favour, this task is quickly taken away from her when they hire a male associate to do the job. Although we see that both Harry Crane and his clients acknowledge her job well-done, Joan is still put aside and plopped right back into her place as a secretary.

Women also struggle with their sexuality, and the many mixed messages in the media do little to help this. Peggy lacks Joan’s sex appeal, and strives to be more like her. When she asks Joan for advice, she tells her to stop dressing like a twelve-year-old girl, while the one “outed” member of the ad team cuts Peggy’s hair without her permission so that she can look sexier. Meanwhile, Peggy is on the creative team, writing copy for advertisements, yet still feels that she must portray sex appeal in order to be accepted. She even sings “Bye Bye Birdie” in front of the mirror, mimicking Ann-Margret whom all the men at the agency love, in her attempts to change.

These are only a few examples of the many nuances and social commentaries seen in the show, and despite my bias Mad Men certainly appeals equally to both sexes. The men will be drawn to the male camaraderie of the advertising world - a world filled with whiskey and women – while women will be drawn to the variety of female characters who struggle through a stereotypical men’s world, but with the luxury of having fabulous outfits.